The French jewelry company, known today as Mauboussin, began its history in 1827, when Monsieur Rocher opened a small jewelry workshop on Rue Greneta in Paris. In those days, the workshop created jewelry inspired by the treasures of antiquity. I was unable to find examples of work from Rocher’s workshop. At that time, not all jewelers signed their works. Monsieur Rocher was succeeded by his assistant, Jean-Baptiste Noury. And exactly 50 years later, in 1876, Mr. Nouri’s fourteen-year-old nephew, Georges Mauboussin, became an apprentice there. And no one yet knew that it was under his name that the company would gain worldwide fame.
Seven years later, Georges Mauboussin became the manager, and after another fifteen, he completely bought the business from his uncle. The workshop grew and flourished, but its rise to the heights of the jewelry Olympus began after the First World War. In 1923, Mauboussin opened a new workshop and store on Rue Choiseul in Paris. At this time, Georges was joined by his son Pierre, who brought a fresh new style to the firm. At the 1925 Paris Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs (Exhibition of Decorative and Industrial Arts), the brand received a gold medal, winning international recognition for its magnificent Art Deco jewelry.
With the return to wealth, society flourished and jewelry design became a fertile environment for experimentation. During the Art Deco period, the Parisian house Mauboussin offered clients a wide range of exquisite designs. In the early 1920s, jewelry design was based on geometric shapes, color contrasts and stylization, and artists drew inspiration from Chinese, Russian, Persian and Indian cultures.
This Tutti-Frutti style bracelet is a fine example of the jewelry art of that era. Carved sapphires, rubies and emeralds, cut in Indian style, resembled candy canes (Tutti-Frutti). Literally all famous jewelers of that time produced similar jewelry with bright carved stones surrounded by platinum and diamonds. By 1928, sculptural elements and colorful textured gemstones were featured in a vast array of Mauboussin creations and frequently appeared on female models in Vogue. Between 1928 and 1931 Mauboussin held three thematic exhibitions – Rubies, Emeralds and Diamonds. These exhibitions brought the House enormous popularity.
This bracelet is one of Mauboussin’s most recognizable and famous creations. It belonged to the American actress Paulette Goddard, the second wife of Charlie Chaplin. Chaplin made two films with Paulette: Modern Times (1936) and The Great Dictator (1940). Both works are undisputed classics that convey a strong social message: the first is a commentary on poverty during the Great Depression, the second is a manifesto against fascism. In the legendary MGM comedy The Women (1939), Paulette Goddard can be seen wearing this emerald and diamond bracelet in the first scene where the audience is introduced to her character, a former variety show performer. The bracelet became a prominent part of her celebrity image and was recognizable to moviegoers in the 1940s.
In 1938, a new line of jewelry called Reflection was developed. designed by Gustave Toth for the American market, more affordable but still at the forefront of high style.
The cooperation between the two companies, which allowed Mauboussin to survive the period of the German occupation of France, continued until 1958.
Royal commissions, exquisite transformable jewels, large diamonds, historical emeralds – these are the sources of inspiration for Mauboussin, creating bright and unique jewelry that significantly influenced the jewelry fashion of the 20th century. The company produces a large assortment of publicly available jewelry, while at the same time preserving the traditions of high jewelry for special customers and collectors.
This automaton is a true Mauboussin masterpiece, combining jewelry techniques, electronics, music and theater. The automaton was made at the request of a famous watch collector, fascinated by the art of the Mauboussin masters. A very complex mechanism moves Harlequin’s arm and head and plays the customer’s favorite melody: “La chanson de Lara” by Maurice Jarre from the film “Doctor Zhivago.”
Mauboussin, which will soon be 200 years old, continues to be a family business. The company is headed by Patrick Mauboussin, who represents the sixth generation of the famous family.
Like many other famous jewelry companies, Mauboussin is expanding the scope of its interests. Since 2000, the company began producing perfumes under its own brand. To date, 15 Mauboussin fragrances have been created. In partnership with the Renault automobile concern, the jewelry house has developed a design for a limited edition of the Twingo luxury car.
