In the 1820s, Fortunato Pio Castellani (1794–1865) initiated a revolutionary movement in jewelry with the creation of the Castellani firm and revived interest in archaeological motifs in the art of jewelry.
Using his vast knowledge of classical jewelry design and new methods for reproducing ancient processes, Castellani became the first 19th-century jeweler to create pieces that closely resembled classical Italian and Greek prototypes, thus creating a new fashion trend.
Castellani’s understanding of the exquisite craftsmanship exhibited in ancient jewelry and his desire to improve Italian craftsmanship and design led him to rediscover the “lost” art of granulation. This technique of applying tiny granules of gold to the surface of an object to create decorative patterns had been perfected by the Etruscans in the 9th–4th centuries BC but had long been forgotten. The quest to master the art of granulation consumed the Castellani family for decades, and the revival of this and other ancient techniques has been one of the Castellani’s greatest contributions to the history of jewelry making.
Castellani’s distinctive jewelry uses simple geometric patterns enhanced by designs of tiny gold granules, small flowers, and filigree wire applied with absolute precision. Perfect miniature mosaics composed of the smallest pieces of tesserae imaginable evoke the early Christian masterpieces of Rome, Ravenna, and Constantinople. Precious stones, cameos, and scarabs—both ancient originals and imitations—are the focal point of some pieces, while others achieve their effect through a variety of enameling techniques, executed in a wide range of rich colors.
The Castellani family ran the firm until 1930, when, after nearly a century of success, it was forced to close.
