Ernesto Pierre. Decorations in archaeological style.
08.06.2024
Archaeological style gold bracelet, Ernesto Pierre, circa 1860, from the collection of the MFA Museum, Boston.
In the second half of the nineteenth century, European jewelers found inspiration in ancient jewelry found during the excavations of Pompeii, in Etruscan tombs, in the finds of Heinrich Schliemann and other archaeologists. These stunning works of art sparked a surge of interest in ancient gold processing techniques, and goldsmiths such as Fortunato Pio Castellani, Eugene Fontenay and Ernesto Pierre began creating jewelry influenced by these discoveries.
Renaissance gold brooch set with enamel, pearls, rubies and sapphires, Ernesto Pierre, 1875 1890, from the collection of the Cooper Hewitt Museum.
Ernesto Pierre (1824-1898), a Frenchman active in Italy, was a contemporary of Castellani and one of the best jewelry artists in Rome at the time. Pierre was born in Paris, but in his youth he moved to Rome, where he studied to become a jeweler. He is known for his work in an archaeological style with high quality mosaics, enamel, gems and ancient coins. John Murray, in his guide to Rome published in 1853, called Pierre one of the “finest jewelers of Rome, second only to Castellani.”
Gold pendant decorated with a micromosaic depicting a pharaoh, Ernesto Pierre, circa 1860.
Pierret’s work is often compared to that of Castellani due to the similarity of style, technique and high quality of work. Historians even believe that Pierre worked for some time for Castellani, a recognized master of archaeological style, who had branches of the company in Rome and London. Pierre did not achieve the same international fame as Castellani. He was exhibited much less frequently, rarely outside of Italy, and his prices were noted as “more moderate” than Castellani’s. And this, ironically, was a disadvantage, since the status of a jeweler was directly related to the wealth of his clients.
Gold medallion in the form of a Greek cross, decorated with micromosaic, Ernesto Pierre, circa 1870.
In 1846, Pierre opened his own workshop at 31 Piazza di Florence. After marrying Virginia Crespi, the daughter of a papal lawyer, he acquired a clientele in the circles of the high clergy. Roman nobility and connoisseurs of antiquities. He bought a beautiful Renaissance palazzo in the center of the jewelry and art district at 20 Piazza di Spagna, near the famous Spanish Steps. He renovated the building, adding a fourth floor and a panoramic terrace, and moved his family and business here. Today the palazzo is a national treasure, an important historical building in Rome and is called Palazzo Pierre. His name can still be seen above the entrance, and his work can be found in many famous museums around the world.
Gold brooch in the form of a Pommée cross (a type of heraldic cross), decorated with micromosaic, Ernesto Pierre, circa 1860.Pendant with lion mask and diamonds, Ernesto Pierre, second half of the 19th century.Gold bracelet in the form of a snake with ruby eyes and a diamond, Ernesto Pierre, second half of the 19th century.Gold bracelet in archaeological style with a cameo of agate, rubies, emeralds and diamonds, the cameo can be removed from the bracelet and worn as a brooch, Ernesto Pierre, circa 1865.Brooch in the form of a Pommée cross, decorated with micromosaic, Ernesto Pierre, circa 1860.Gold brooch with carnelian and onyx cameo depicting the Bacchae, Ernesto Pierre, second half of the 19th century.Gold brooch Gloria Patri with amethysts and a Greek inscription in a circle So it was in the beginning, it is and will always be, Ernesto Pierre, second half of the 19th century.Pendant in Etruscan style with a carnelian scarab, Ernesto Pierre, circa 1860.Gold brooch in Egyptian style, Ernesto Pierre, second half of the 19th century.Gold brooch in archaeological style, Ernesto Pierre, circa 1860 1870.Parure decorated with onyx intaglios depicting classical figures including Ceres, Flora, Minerva and Aphrodite, Ernesto Pierre, circa 1860.Gold brooch with scarab in lapis lazuli inlaid with micromosaic, second half of the 19th century.Gold necklace decorated with micromosaic, 1870.Micromosaic details (fragment).Gold brooch with pearls and agate cameo by Giorgio Antonio Girardet and G. Ciniselli, 1880.Set of gold jewelry in Renaissance style with pearls and emeralds, 1880.Bracelet set with an amethyst intaglio depicting Cupid with a lyre, circa 1865.Gold bracelet decorated with coral cameos, circa 1870.Gold brooch in the form of a cross, decorated with sapphires, rubies, pearls and sapphires, second half of the 19th century.Set of gold jewelry with carved coral roses and micromosaic, circa 1860.
