Coco Chanel costume jewelry – the most coveted jewelry

Coco Chanel Byzantine Heart Crest Brooch.
Coco Chanel Byzantine Heart Crest Brooch.

Coco Chanel costume jewelry – the most coveted jewelry: how the “mirror” brooch won the love of millions

A little black dress, a tweed jacket, low-heeled slingbacks – millions of women around the world never cease to praise Gabrielle Chanel for reinventing the women’s wardrobe at the beginning of the 20th century and giving us things that will never go out of fashion. The designer also taught us how to properly wear wide trousers (“borrowed” from a man’s wardrobe) and make every look unforgettable with the help of a smart choice of accessories. Speaking of accessories: it was thanks to Chanel that Chanel costume jewelry replaced jewelry in our jewelry box. But before, it was considered just a fake for jewelry! We tell you how the founder of the House of Chanel rethought the role of costume jewelry in modern fashion and our lives.

CoCo Chanel Renaissance Crest Brooch.
CoCo Chanel Renaissance Crest Brooch.

A little about the history of costume jewelry

It all started with a big – no, not an explosion! – with a big deception. In the 19th century, a jeweler named Georges Frederic Strass invented a technology for creating crystal that, when properly processed and skillfully cut, became indistinguishable from a real diamond. Instead of using his discovery for good, the cunning Strass began to deceive customers: under the guise of real jewelry, he sold fakes that only a professional could detect. After the death of the enterprising Strass, everyone’s favorite rhinestones were named after him (although he clearly did not deserve such an honor!), but in the public consciousness, costume jewelry became firmly associated with fraud and counterfeiting. Fortunately, historical justice was restored – largely thanks to Coco Chanel.

CoCo Chanel Glass Enamel Flower Belt.
CoCo Chanel Glass Enamel Flower Belt.

Coco Chanel and costume jewelry

Even at the beginning of the 20th century, wearing costume jewelry in decent society was considered something shameful. But Coco was never afraid to go against the generally accepted norms: she happily wore striped shirts and trousers borrowed from her men’s wardrobes, cut her hair short and did not hide from the sun, preferring a healthy tan instead of aristocratic whiteness. Chanel treated the desire of her contemporaries to show off their wealth with jewelry with slight disdain. “Jewelry is not created to cause envy – at best, amazement,” she believed. Coco proved by her own example that stud earrings with simple crystals and sautoir necklaces made of artificial pearls can look no less impressive than jewelry with precious “cobblestones”.

Important Coco Chanel Elaborate Byzantine Crucifix Necklace.
Important Coco Chanel Elaborate Byzantine Crucifix Necklace.

Favorite jewelry

Coco Chanel’s favorite jewelry has always been and remains a string of pearls, which the designer wore in several rows and combined with black dresses, blouses, jumpers, striped shirts, tweed jackets (with anything!). While natural pearls were considered the privilege of aristocrats, Chanel preferred their artificial counterpart. “Pearls are always right,” Gabrielle authoritatively declared, and with her light hand, jewelry made of artificial pearls settled in the jewelry boxes of contemporaries, and then turned into a classic that has not gone out of fashion for more than 60 years. Coco herself wore pearls until her death in 1971: in her collection you could find several sautoirs, short and classic beads, earrings and even brooches made of pearls.

CoCo Chanel 1950s Renaissance Sautoir.
CoCo Chanel 1950s Renaissance Sautoir.

More beautiful than real ones

“People with good taste wear costume jewelry. “Those who don’t have it are content with gold,” Coco Chanel believed, claiming that her “fake” jewelry could be much more beautiful than the real thing. “Costume jewelry is not created to give a woman an aura of wealth, but to make her beautiful,” she added. And the designer really did create jewelry that could outshine even high jewelry pieces. In 1921, Chanel presented a collection of jewelry in the Art Deco style, the main pearl of which was a brooch. The designer loved to wear it, pinning it to a beret, a jacket lapel, a collar and even a pocket – for her, a brooch was a universal decoration that went with everything.

Coco Chanel Gilt Filigree Bead Long Necklace, Goossens.
Coco Chanel Gilt Filigree Bead Long Necklace, Goossens.

Object of Desire

Even after the death of the founder, costume jewelry remains an important part of the legacy of the Chanel fashion house. Just like almost a hundred years ago, multi-layered pearl necklaces and classic beads complete the Chanel looks in the spring-summer 2022 collection. They are accompanied by headbands with rhinestones, earrings with semi-precious stones and rigid bracelets with artificial pearls.

The brand’s jewelry is still considered the most prestigious jewelry worn by modern aristocrats and celebrities. Moreover, not only new items created under the direction of Virginie Viard are in demand, but also rare treasures – vintage bracelets and necklaces that can be found on the Oskelly resale platform. And yet, perhaps the main object of desire (not counting the pearl sautoir) remains a brooch in the form of mirrored letters “C” – a logo inspired by the stained glass window in the chapel of the monastery in Aubazine, where Coco spent her childhood.

CoCo Chanel Maison Gripoix Flower Necklace.
CoCo Chanel Maison Gripoix Flower Necklace.

Chanel brooch

The intertwined letters “C” are considered one of the main symbols of Chanel. Unfortunately, it was because of this logo that Princess Diana refused to wear Chanel products after the divorce: it reminded her of the names Charles and Camilla (in English, both names are written with the letter “C”). And yet, despite this sad story, brooches with the logo of the fashion house are still popular, because they allow you to touch the history of Chanel. The brooch is popular not only in the brand’s boutiques (one of the most popular Chanel accessories in retail, by the way), but also on resale platforms.

This decoration is basically a timeless piece and, despite the fact that it belongs to the category of costume jewelry, it takes its place in the ratings of fashion investments. So, on Oskelly you can not only buy both vintage and new options with pearls, enamel, rhinestones, but also sell them profitably. And such diversity is not surprising – it’s just that Coco Chanel’s costume jewelry is as multifaceted as she herself.

Coco Chanel Byzantine Heart Crest Brooch2
Byzantine Heart Crest Brooch2
Important Jewelled Clover Brooch, Property of Coco Chanel.
Important Jewelled Clover Brooch, Property of Coco Chanel.
Coco Chanel Medieval Style Quatrefoil Brooch.
Medieval Style Quatrefoil Brooch.
1980s Vintage CHANEL Gold Plated CoCo Chanel Charm Chain Necklace.
1980s Vintage CHANEL Gold Plated CoCo Chanel Charm Chain Necklace.
Coco Chanel Maison Gripoix Sautoir Necklace, Rare Book Piece.
Maison Gripoix Sautoir Necklace, Rare Book Piece.
Golden Metal Earrings from the Coco Chanel Period.
Golden Metal Earrings from the Coco Chanel Period.
Scarce Coco Chanel 1994 Fall Winter Monumental Cream Pearl Necklace Sautoir.
1994 Fall Winter Monumental Cream Pearl Necklace Sautoir.
Coco Chanel Gilt Sunburst Brooch with Pastes and Pearls, Goossens.
Gilt Sunburst Brooch with Pastes and Pearls, Goossens.
CoCo Chanel Pate De Verre Poured Byzantine Glass Belt, Workshop Maison Gripoix.
Pate De Verre Poured Byzantine Glass Belt, Workshop Maison Gripoix.
Authentic Chanel Coco Mark Gold Round Earrings.
Authentic Chanel Coco Mark Gold Round Earrings.
Chanel Vintage Ladies Watch.
Vintage Ladies Watch.
Chanel 100th Anniversary Coco Mark Pearl Necklace Gold.
100th Anniversary Coco Mark Pearl Necklace Gold.
Authentic Chanel Vintage Mirror Brooch 25 Coco Mark.
Authentic Chanel Vintage Mirror Brooch 25 Coco Mark.
Coco Chanel 1930’s Gripoix Green White Glass Camellia Flower Brooch.
1930’s Gripoix Green White Glass Camellia Flower Brooch.
Attractive gilt bronze flower brooch by Maison Gripoix for Chanel.
Attractive gilt bronze flower brooch by Maison Gripoix for Chanel.
A rare find, Chanel ear clip with 5 feathers, handcrafted beautiful pearl surrounded by rhinestones in the middle.
A rare find, Chanel ear clip with 5 feathers, handcrafted beautiful pearl surrounded by rhinestones in the middle.
Vintage Chanel Baroque Pearl Medallion Necklace.
Baroque Pearl Medallion Necklace.
Chanel Vintage Gilt Green and Red Butterfly Earrings.
Gilt Green and Red Butterfly Earrings.
Vintage Chanel Coral Camellia Brooch.
Vintage Chanel Coral Camellia Brooch.
Vintage Chanel Coco Coin Cuff c1995 Chain Link Leather Bracelet Yellow Gold Tone.
Coin Cuff c1995 Chain Link Leather Bracelet Yellow Gold Tone.
Chanel Rare 1980s Large Gold Tone Cameo Earrings.
Rare 1980s Large Gold Tone Cameo Earrings.
Chanel Iconic Signature Crest Cuff.
Iconic Signature Crest Cuff.
Chanel Set of Necklace and Earrings in Gold Metal and Mother of Pearl.
Set of Necklace and Earrings in Gold Metal and Mother of Pearl.
Collectible Chanel Gold Choker Necklace Circa 2008.
Collectible Chanel Gold Choker Necklace Circa 2008.
Chanel Gilt Flower Brooch Workshop Gripoix.
Gilt Flower Brooch Workshop Gripoix.
CHANEL lucky charm bracelet with 7 iconic Chanel pendants gold plated, 1990.
Lucky charm bracelet with 7 iconic Chanel pendants gold plated, 1990.
Vintage Chanel Red and Pearl Anglo Indian Statement Earrings.
Red and Pearl Anglo Indian Statement Earrings.